Snettisham
2012 - 10: Wrapping Things Up
September 21-23

Evening sun across the river

After closing up the Taku cabin with my parents,
there were
but two weekends left in September and it was time to close
Snettisham.
It was, as always, a bittersweet proposition; I felt that I hadn't
spent enough
time at Snettisham this year, but was also eager to put the anxiety of
September weather behind me and be truly ready to embrace the
fall. I'd
pulled the Ronquil out of
the water on the 15th (the last day I'd paid for the slip),
not sure
if I'd use it for Snettisham (or anything) and reluctant to pay slip
fees with
that uncertainty (and I can always launch it again). If possible,
I
wanted to bring enough T-111 siding down to enclose the shed, which is
an
awkward load for the Ronquil
and would prevent my bringing any guests. I
needed guests
to put away the riverboat and also hoped that my mother could come
along and
put up the shutters she'd made for the picture window. And so my
parents
lent me the Kathy M again,
which also made weather prospects more
reasonable.
Anyway, I spent the week getting ready, making a Home Depot run
Monday
after work, packing, inviting people, and grocery shopping. Chris
and I
loaded the ten pieces of plywood on top of the Kathy M's cabin Thursday
night,
laying a blanket down to protect the boat and tying it all down with
line. The next day we met up with my mom, Torsten, and Myron at
the harbor and were off at
3:25. It was about equinox and getting dark too early for an
after work
departure. The clear day had turned into high overcast above the
channel,
but we rode on nearly calm seas into blue sky over Stephen's
Passage. It
was just as well the weather was wonderful, as the plywood made the
boat quite
top heavy and prone to listing! We moved people and gear
many times during the trip to balance the load in shifting wind and sea
conditions. At the bite north of Seal Rocks, some splashing
caught our
attention and I turned in that direction in the hopes that the Dall's
porpoise
there might be interested in playing. Much to my delight, they
took the
offer, coming up three times just off the bow, giving us wonderful
looks at
their black and white bodies, then coming up in the wake before moving
off. It was a brief encounter, but the first I've had in several
years.
I almost never see Dall's porpoise in Stephen's Passage anymore and
when I do
they seem to be near Snettisham in the fall. Others saw a whale
father
south and another near Mist Island, but I didn't notice either (one
byproduct
of driving inside a cabin).
We arrived at the homestead about 5:30 right at a 17 something foot
high
tide. We rode right up onto the log and unloaded everything with
ease. The others hauled everything up the beach while Cailey and
I went
to anchor the Kathy M.
So eager was Cailey to get to shore that
she
boarded the kayak on her own while I was still busy anchoring; I let
her drift
out alone a bit for the sake of a picture (below). By the time we
got
back to shore, the boys had lit a fire in the fire pit outside, which
helped
disburse the white socks (biting flies) and warmed us up. It
hadn't been
used much over the summer, so it was good to walk around it and tromp
down the
weeds a little. I was quite disappointed to find that the lodge
smelled
badly of mildew, which it never had before, and which we couldn't trace
to any
specific source. That night I made marinara pasta with ground
bison,
garlic bread, and salad by the light of my Coleman lantern (I had yet
to find
the issue with the propane light system). When we went to bed
(fairly
early--I think we were all exhausted for our own reasons), I was doubly
disappointed to find my cabin smelling overpoweringly of mildew
too. Most
of the bedding was infected, but not the sheets. Thankfully, the
weather
was puzzlingly warm, so we slept more comfortably than we did
mid-summer.
![]() Lumber on the roof of the Kathy M |
![]() Hauling the lumber up the beach |
![]() Cailey alone on the kayak |
I got up at 8:00 the next morning to find Torsten
reading on
the front porch. Soon others trickled in and we had hot drinks
before
starting work. My goal was to first finish the cedar siding on
the front
of the lodge and then get to work putting siding up on the shed.
There
were only three more pieces to fit--half of the last full row and the
top row,
which was not quite full height and which was complicated by the beam
running
down the middle. I had a 12' board and probably needed less than
half of that, so
I was feeling pretty confident. That was before I managed to
poorly cut
two versions of the first piece! The mistake was measuring from
the top
of the board I was overlapping rather than an inch below the top to
take into
account the overlap. Apparently I didn't compensate well enough
on the
second board, either. But I was feeling pretty mellow, and I got
it right
the third time. Unfortunately, that used up most of the board, so
I
didn't have a single piece long enough to span the final row, nor was
one long
enough to go more than a few inches past the middle point under the
beam.
So, I was forced to do the unaesthetic thing and make the break at the
centerline, which was exactly where the split on the row below
was. A
shoddy plan, and the seams aren't perfect, but it was good enough for
me at that moment.
Fitting those final two pieces took a lot of ladder work--I must have
made at
least 15 cuts to get them to fit well around the beam (it was pretty
much impossible,
or at least would have been a lot more work, and probably unsuccessful,
to try
taking all the measurements). At last I was done and it was not
quite
lunch time, enough time to start the shed siding before breaking.
Before
I started that project, though, Myron and Torsten were eager to
work.
Myron had been trimming the rock path that morning and had more rocks
in mind
already. I got out the chainsaw, discovered that I didn't have
any more
bar and chain oil, and gave it to Torsten to do what he could with
it. I
showed them the alder branches on the beach below Mink that I wanted
bucked up
and then we walked over to the log bridge and I described the general
spacing I
wanted and location and left them to it.
I was already a bit irritable at how the morning was going (I was
probably
hungry) and the next stage didn't help. Chris helped me carry the
first
piece of plywood to the sawhorses I'd set up in front of the shed and
we cut it
to fit on the back wall. But, it turned out to be a bit too tall,
so we
had to
trim a little to get it to fit squarely under all the rafters.
Then we
tacked it in place and I dug out the sawsall to cut the window
opening.
After some mangled attempts, I gave it up altogether. The problem
was
that the guide around the blade prevented me from cutting from the
inside of
the sill where I could see the window outline (because the siding was
on the outside of the window) and if I
cut
from the outside, I couldn't see where the window opening was. My
plan to
make the project easy by cutting the window openings in place had
failed.
Instead, I marked the outline of the window to cut elsewhere.
Unfortunately, I'd foolishly completely nailed some nails in, so
removing the
plywood proved difficult. My stomach finally prevailed and I gave up
until
after lunch, making a parade of quesadillas for the five of us.
With some sustenance, the task seemed more
manageable after
lunch. I whacked and pried at the plywood until it relinquished
its hold
on the shed, laid it back on the sawhorses, and cut the window out with
the jigsaw.
Chris had gone to help the other boys with the log bridge, so my mother
came
over to help tack it back in and hold up the next piece for marking,
cutting,
and tacking. By the time Chris came back I was starting work on
the back
wall of the shed, which required more careful measurements because the
wall
slopes up. I managed to measure and cut the plywood correctly,
with
the
exception that I made the cut in the wrong direction so that when I put
up the
plywood in the direction
I wanted it to go, it sloped down instead of up. The good news is
that
the opposite side of the shed reversed the
direction
and we were able to use
the piece there with one extra cut to accommodate the door in the
middle of the
wall. I'm grateful that Chris was there to set me straight when
we were
nailing that piece in, as I did not have the plywood meeting up
correctly in the
corners. From that point on the process went a lot more quickly
and smoothly.
Chris would hold the plywood in place while I traced the outline of the
window,
I'd cut the window out with the jigsaw, and then we'd tack it into
place.
The back wall was an extra 7" wide (my fault for building all walls 8',
forgetting that two would fit between the others), so that took a bit
of extra
measuring and cutting so the middle piece ended and the next piece
started on a stud. That
resulted
in a narrow piece finishing the wall; amazingly, the rest of that piece
of
plywood exactly fit the section to the right of the door on the front
wall without any
additional
cutting, a rare win. By 6:30 or so we'd finished all the walls, leaving
only
the door and windows uncovered.
In the meantime, my mother had spent the afternoon
in
frustration with the shutters. She'd started beautiful pine
shutters for
the picture window of the lodge for my birthday, and had finished
staining
them the week before. But, they were untested on the actual
window,
having been built in town from measurements taken the summer before,
and my
mother found some glitches that resulted in an afternoon of grim labor
as she
trimmed and adjusted. Myron came to help when the bridge work
reached
completion. Once the shutters themselves were in good shape, they
had to
figure out a system for mounting them on the lodge flush against the
window
trim, which was a couple of inches out from the wall. The results
of both
the shed and the shutters were fantastic, but hard won victories.
The
bridge had also taken shape through more hard work on Myron and
Torsten's part.
They had spaced the logs an even 36" apart and had them more or less
level
between the two logs and across the gully. Myron had single
handedly
hauled dozens of large, flat rocks from the beach in front of Mink
Cabin up to
the bridge to make solid, attractive, rock foundations on both
ends. Next
summer all I need to do is place boards across the logs and I'll have
myself a
bridge! The boys also bucked up the alder on the beach, the end
of the
tree used for the bridge that lay across the path above Harbor Seal,
and the 6'
section of 18" log left in the gully below the bridge from a firewood
work
party a few years ago, and hauled them all to the lodge. Torsten
also
bucked up some of the spruce branches littering the ground around the
shed,
providing more firewood and cleaning the area up a bit.
By this time, we were all pretty
exhausted. Poor
Chris was put to additional work grilling steaks outside. I made
some
stuffing, heated some rolls, and cut up some zucchini to go along with
the alder
grilled steaks and we feasted. Just as we sat down to eat, I
broke out a
bottle of champagne and we toasted to a good summer, and the end of
summer, and
soon I felt giddy, delighted at the day and our accomplishments.
We ate
crumb cake for dessert and crashed.
That night it began to rain hard, and didn't stop
until we
left the homestead. The already saturated earth was soon slick
and soft
and, though I certainly would have welcomed a bright, crisp fall day,
it seemed
fitting weather for close up. The first thing I did was clean up
around
the lodge, as everything from construction the day before was still
lying
around, including the scraps of plywood on the ground, the bucked up
firewood,
and the tools splayed across the top deck. I tidied everything up
and did
the dishes, then started dismantling the water system and closing up
the
cabins. Torsten had been ahead of me already taking off the
filter
housings and carrying the filters back to the lodge. My mom and I
greased
the o-rings, screwed the housings back on, opened all the valves, and
covered
them with tinfoil. We inspected the blankets in the cabins for
mildew and
took any that needed washing along with all the linens back to the
lodge to
bring back to town. Chris and I had already covered the outhouses
with
tarps the day before, so we tied up the cabin outhouse, leaving the
other open
for use until we left. I'd already collected all the food and
gear from
the lodge I wanted to take back to town, so there was wasn't very much
more to do.
And so I thought that it was just possible to finish the shed.
Regardless, I needed to nail the plywood in, which was just tacked up
at that
point. I headed out and started banging, soon joined by Torsten
and
Chris. While we were hammering away, my mom came over to ask if
she
should go take the olive barrel out of the creek; I described where it
should
go, and that the hose should be moved out of the creek too, and
suggested she
take Myron for extra help. I'd been suspicious that the olive
barrel had not been capturing water all weekend due to low pressure and
diminishing flow, so removing it from the creek probably wouldn't make
any difference for doing last minute dishes. After they left I
nailed in a few more
nails,
then left the rest to those taller than me and went to take the battery
and the
last gear out of the riverboat. This year's eaglet made his or
her
presence known, calling and flying around the property as we worked.
Back
in the lodge, the three of us took a break and pondered what my
mom and Myron were up to. Soon they showed up, having been unable
to remove the hose from the olive barrel (which had been flooded out
and was wedged under a log downriver); my instructions had been
poor, and they'd spent time and energy trying to separate the two,
which are permanently attached. With that cleared up, they headed
back up there,
with orders not to cut the devil's club to make a path as Myron
requested. A little while later I went after
them to see how it was going, only to find them coming down with sober
faces. Myron had stepped on a devil's club which whipped into his
eye so fast his eyelid didn't shut in time. Back at the lodge we
inspected his eye which was visibly scratched; there were no obvious
spines in the eye itself, but there were purple blotches on his
eyelid. I gave him some pain killers, my mom gave him a cold
washcloth to put over the eye, and we left him collapsed on the couch
to finish our chores. We considered moving the riverboat with the engine
attached,
but one feeble push and we gave up on that. I'd brought a tire
pump to
pump up the deflated tires of the dolly, but apparently they were so
flat they
wouldn't pump up without some lighter fluid or something. But, it
would
have to do. The four of us took turns unscrewing the four bolts
holding
the engine on and we pulled it off much more efficiently than last
year.
Torsten tied it onto the dolly and we drug it up onto the porch.
In no
time, the riverboat had crossed the porch (with Torsten playing ox in
front)
and was upside down and blocked up in its winter position.
At
that point
there was really very little left to do and it was only a little after
noon so
we decided to tackle the windows. The first attempt failed; we
tried to
cram one of the windows into the upriver hole, but it was just too
tight;
hoping for a win, we moved to the back wall and found that the window
fit
perfectly. Chris held it in place outside while I drilled holes
through
the studs inside and screwed it in from the sides. Torsten used
shims to
close the gap on the top. And suddenly there was a window, and it
opened
and everything!
The next window we tried was a little more snug, and took a bit longer
and some
anxious tapping with a rubber mallet to go into place in the downriver
hole. But it, too, fit, although the crank wasn't able to shut
the window
fully (we guessed that the hinges got out of whack when jamming it into
the
tight space). It was actually missing the crank, but I pulled one
off the
broken window and replaced it. The last uncracked window we tried
back at
the original hole, but there was no getting it in. I knew that
the
original spaces were large enough, so the clear culprit was some rather
poor work on my part when cutting out the plywood, which was obvious
where it overlapped at
the top. We decided to go ahead and fix it, so in no time my
mom was
standing on the stepladder outside the window trimming it with a jigsaw
(ingeniously cutting up to the edge of the sill in several places so
she could use the
cuts as
guides since she had to work from the outside of the window; why hadn't
I
thought of that?). That solved the problem, and we soon had the
final
window tapped in and screwed into place, with another dysfunctional
crank. But, having the windows open is not a priority in the
shed, and
one of them works! And so the shed was complete, with the
exception of
the door, which is a much more serious task to be left for spring.
I think we broke for lunch at that point, a picnic
lunch to
avoid dishes and mess. I put out a couple packages of smoked
Sweetheart
salmon from this summer, salami, cheese, crackers, bread, fruit, and
cookies. When we had eaten our fill I swept out and closed up
Hermit
Thrush and carried the linens across the new log bridge. We then
scurried around packing up, which mostly involved moving things into
the
nearly-completed shed. The stack of tools that had annoyed
everyone
behind
the back door in the lodge had been sitting outside since I painted the
floors
back in June! Not good tool care, I know, but I was just tired of
having
them falling down all over the place inside. In fact, that was a
primarily
motivation in building the shed! And now, at long last, we
carried load
after load of tools to lean against the studs in the shed. And
not just
tools, but the boat engine, action packer, generator, dollies, plywood
pieces
cut for the windows, etc. It was fantastic
We put one of the two leftover pieces of plywood in the shed as well,
and then
Torsten and Chris screwed the other piece over the door. My mom
and I
wrapped up the lodge outhouse, drained the remaining water from the
system,
shut off
the propane, and hauled all our gear outside. I left my mother to
finish
sweeping and put newspapers over the windows and went to get the Kathy
M.
I considered leaving Cailey on shore, as I wasn't sure how well she'd
be able
to leap into the Kathy M from
the kayak, but as soon as she met me at
the water
and started to clamber aboard, I gave in. She rode out like a
pro, as
usual, and gracefully leapt onto the gunwales after some encouragement.
I
filled up the oil, put 10 gallons of gas in, and brought the boat
ashore on a
rising tide. We loaded her up and I made a final trip up to the
lodge. The shutters were a little loose too, due to the need for
each
side to be hinged into two sections (because the window is so wide), so
we
braced it with a couple pieces of wood against the porch and hoped for
the
best. With those gorgeous stained shutters and the cedar siding
over the
gable part of the roof, the lodge is transformed--very classy!
Chris
attached a motion sensor camera to one of the lodge posts and set it
up for
video; it'll run until the battery runs out, the storage runs out, or a
bear
eats it. I ran back one last time to get my skilsaw, which I need
this
winter at home, and then we were finally ready to push off just shy of
4:00.
The heavy rain we'd worked in all day had passed and the afternoon was
bright. Gilbert Bay was flat calm, but we ran into enough swells
at the
entrance to the port that I knew it was kicking up a bit in Stephen's
Passage. We spotted whales beyond Mist Island, and then more
whales,
and more whales. We passed a group of two, a group of five, and
more all
around. The seas and the canopy of the boat prevented really good
whale
watching but we saw many fountains of mist, sparkling bodies, and tails
(four
of the group of five had mostly white flukes). We lingered for a
bit,
then moved and made the turn up Stephen's Passage, leaving the group-up
and
summer behind. Two and three foot seas followed us all the way
in; crossing
Taku Inlet, the mountains were bright and we could see patches of blue
sky over
Admiralty and up the Taku. Ahead of us, Gastineau Channel was
black, the
only rain in sight! We drove toward the squall, but just beyond
downtown
the sky turned golden and bright over the airport. We pulled into
Aurora
Harbor, efficiently tied up the boat, hauled our gear up in the
suddenly
pouring rain, and said goodbye. It took a few more days for it to
sink
in, but I could finally embrace fall. What a long and wonderful
summer!
![]() One of the five fluking |
![]() Mom, Torsten, and Chris |
![]() Group-up blows |
![]() Our wake in the choppy sea |
![]() Driving home |
![]() Looming clouds and sun over Juneau |
