2006 Snettisham Adventure #3: Rain
June 2-4

lodge with windowsI hesitate to name this chapter “Rain” with the prescient knowledge that constant downpours will no doubt follow on subsequent trips. However, I could find no other overriding theme to the weekend (fellow Juneauites enjoying the weather will know what I mean). So, on to the story—it’s a long one, and not very exciting, so feel free to just enjoy the photos.

The shell of the lodge building (the one that is meant to be a dining/eating/lounging facility) was completed last summer with the help of friends and family. It sat all winter with a tarp over the porch to protect the cedar and no doors or windows or covers over the gable ends. Last week I cajoled my carpenter friend Rob into coming down to install doors and windows and to sit around a campfire for a night. Friday morning we met up at the Douglas boat ramp, I in my 17’ skiff and he in his 22’ aluminum boat accompanied by his wife Stacey and daughter Hope. It was the second time I’d launched the boat myself (meaning I was driving the car) and I was grateful that the Carpenters didn’t show up until after I was nearly through making a fool out of myself. My parents thankfully donated their truck to the endeavor, as I am currently truck-less.

A squall kicked up as we were launching and the seas in front of Sandy Beach were squirrelly and unpleasant. Taku Inlet was no better, with three foot swells kicked about by the wind; I pounded away in the wake of Rob’s boat, gritting my teeth, watching my skiff flex under the stress, and cursing Taku Inlet in my head. By the time we reached Port Snettisham I was grumpy, about three inches shorter from all the pounding, and the brace holding up my left windshield had broken. And we drove right into a rainstorm that lasted all weekend.

Inside the Port, the seas calmed down a bit (and so did I) and I cruised by the sea lion haulout to find about 40 animals remaining (the rest have headed out for breeding rookeries on the outer coast). Loons, murres, and murrelets were everywhere on the water, and a great blue heron waited at the edge of the sand bars above the homestead. About 60 seals bobbed together in the water to greet us where the river sand dropped off into the deep.Carp and Hope

Friday afternoon, Rob and I planed down a section of the beam beneath the back door with a rented power planer until the siding fit flush (the beam was a bit wide). He busied himself installing doors while Stacey and I, with some assistance, leveled and nailed in the windows. The rain was a steady downpour, sliding off the roof and landing in cold drops on the backs of our necks as we worked. While Stacey and Rob finished up at the lodge, Hope and I made a little fire back at the “dry” campsite in the woods on the point. Much as I wanted to use the new fire pit down at the lodge, the rain forced us elsewhere. Even so, the drops were steady as we sat around the blaze, drinking and cooking hot dogs and beans (see photo to right).

After a pleasant night listening to the rain on the metal roof, I got up and walked down to the lodge, less than inspired by the driving rain and the foggy inlet. I spent a few hours sitting on the porch looking over the inlet until the Carpenters decided to go home and dry off. Rob headed out in the kayak and brought the boat as close to shore as possible in the falling tide (some 100 feet from dry land). I drug myself out of my reverie and started to help haul their gear down to the boat, waiting at the water’s edge while the others waded out (they wore hip waders). Suddenly I realized they weren’t so much loading gear as pushing on the boat, which was suddenly caught on the sand by the falling tide. After watching them struggle for a bit, I steeled myself for the cold water and waded in to help. For those of you unfamiliar with tides in SE Alaska, you have to act fast if it’s against you. A few minutes to change clothes likely would have cost them the tide.

Grimacing from the cold, I shouldered and lifted the boat with the others. We moved it a good two feet over the sand before all efforts failed. Stacey suggested spinning it around until the bow pointed to deep water. Amazingly, this seemed to do the trick and we were able to laboriously slide it a few feet at a time into deeper water. Stacey stayed with the boat to keep it afloat while Rob and I finished hauling gear. Happier than I had been all weekend, I said a prayer of thanks to the wilderness gods for waking me up, giving me a bit of adventure, and freezing me to the bones in the pouring rain. Really, it was great.


wet hummer  swallow  swallows
Completely rejuvenated, I quickly changed clothes once the Carpenters took off and decided to work on firewood to warm myself. My dreams of splitting wood with an ax didn’t quite work out, but I managed to effectively break up, organize, and move the makeshift stack of tarped firewood from last summer right next to the dry fire pit. I did the same to a lesser degree by the lodge firepit.

Later in the afternoon I started a massive cleaning and organizing event, working my way thoroughly through each of the four cabins, getting a grasp on what supplies I have on hand, cleaning away the winter dust, and putting sheets on the beds. A mysterious wet patch in one of the cabins turned out to be slowly leaking cans of 7-Up that had frozen and ruptured over the winter. I’ll have to remember to leave those outside this fall.

whale lungeWhen I was too tired to work anymore, I retired to the lodge to sit on the porch. A male hummingbird stopped by a few times to sip diligently at the newly filled feeder, then went and perched in the rain (see photo above—poor little guy). Four barn swallows showed up and spent hours in superbly acrobatic aerial displays catching insects in front of the lodge. One of them repeatedly came into the porch and perched a few feet away from me to rest out of the rain. The rest of the group perched together on a rock at the edge of the water (see photos above). Once, as I stepped off the porch, a lovely pale mink hopped by, paused casually to check me out, then disappeared beneath a wood pile.

After dinner, a few beers, and a cigar (a newly acquired taste) I turned in early. During the night the rain beat so hard on the metal roof I felt like I was being attacked. In the morning a fine mist lay over the water and I had a two hour reprieve from the rain while I washed the new windows on the lodge. Around 10:00 I kayaked out to the boat to discover a foot of water in the back; it took me 20 minutes to bail it out. I’d hoped for a calm, rainless ride home, but the wind kicked up and it was choppy before I hit Stephen’s Passage. Thankfully I had a few wildlife encounters that made the bumps worth while. A pair of whales fed together at the entrance to Port Snettisham, breathing and fluking close to the boat several times (see photo below). Two others were moving about the area. I headed out into the Passage and turned north, stopping to check out a boat on the beach. Just as I pulled away (satisfied that no one needed rescuing) a whale lunged farther down the beach close to shore. I pulled up and shut down, watching the whale lunge, turning in big circles and passing as close as 20 feet from the boat. Fantastic. (For those of you who aren’t familiar with this type of activity, humpback whales sometime “lunge feed,” breaking the surface with their mouths wide open and engulfing groups of fleeing fish trapped against the surface. It’s very dramatic to watch. Check out the photo to the right—the whale is upright (tale down, head pointed at the sky), the upper jaw with the baleen is on the right and the lower jaw is acting like a big bucket on the bottom left. I think that’s his pectoral fin breaking the surface by the corner of his mouth).

The rain set in again as I left the whale to feed and got busy crashing my way through the two foot seas. This time I was rewarded by having my entire left windshield collapse beyond my ability to repair. Looking on the bright side, at least it improved visibility, as my own small windshield was obscured by rain and salt spray.

And that’s that. A nice weekend to be sure, rain or no rain. Hope you enjoy the photos.

whale fluke

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