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Snettisham Construction Adventure The Idea/Tour
Home The Idea/Tour Land & Wildlife 2001-2: Exploring 2003: The Start 2004: Work Party 2005: The Lodge 2006: Having Fun 2007: Civilizing It 2008: Lodge Improvements 2009: I'm on a Boat! 2010: The Cabins 2011: Guests, etc. 2012: Dog Adventures 2013: Back to Basics 2014: Historical Adventures 2015: Living It Regional Map Videos	South Sawyer Glacier, Tracy Arm

I always daydreamed of making my living in the wilderness (perhaps running some sort of tourism operation) but rarely considered it a real possibility after my parents sold the Taku Lodge in 1992. However, after my sojourn on the water with Allen Marine/Auk Nu Tours (1998-2001) and graduating from college, this desire suddenly took on real force and I was determined to pursue it. My first task was to earn my 100 ton master's license (captain's license), a feat which lasted several months and may be one of the most difficult single things I've ever accomplished. Once I knew that I could take passengers on the water (for any business worthwhile would have to involve the ocean and marine mammals) I began to formulate the rest of the plan.

Thankfully, I'm fortunate to have access to wilderness land. In the 1960s small parcels of private land came up for auction around Southeast Alaska and my father was wise and lucky enough to pick some of them up, two in Port Snettisham. One is at the entrance of the port near Pt. Amner and the other is at the mouth of the Whiting River near Gilbert Bay somewhat farther inside (see the regional map for details). The latter parcel I now own, thanks to the generosity of my parents, and most often refer to as "the homestead" though I've since learned that may not be the most appropriate title. Unlike my parents' property on the Taku River, both of these lots are more or less accessible to marine boats. While using the Taku property for a commercial operation was tempting, Snettisham's proximity to Tracy Arm Fjord, nearby whales/marine mammals, and the relative ease of transportation won over the glaciers, sloughs, meadows, and other features of the Taku.

So, what's this lodge business all about anyway? Am I following in my parents' footsteps from the Taku Lodge? Well, yes and no, but the tour and the market are somewhat different. The intent is to develop an "eco-tourism" tour. Eco-tourism is a small but growing sector of the tourism industry and, not surprisingly, something that I happily engage in whenever I travel. Simply put, the idea (in this instance) is that tourists (independent/non-cruise ship travelers) gain some real understanding and appreciation of the places they visit and engage in real experiences. They learn about the human and natural history of a place, respect local lifestyles, and patronize local businesses. It tends to be good for the environment and good for the local economy. Consequently it costs more--eco-tourism is high-end.

So my business is intended to cater to adventurous eco-tourists. Home base for the tour will be the homestead but most days will be spent on the water (and, no, I don't own the boat yet). Ultimately, the market will sort out the sort of tours I'll run, but my ideal would be a weekly five-day trip as follows:

Day 1
The boat picks up passengers from downtown Juneau for a cruise down Stephen's Passage to the homestead. Timing will probably depend on the tides. On the way down, we could visit the Scar up Taku Inlet (a sheer cliff home to breeding gulls and pigeon guillemots), stop for wildlife, and introduce the guests to the history of the area. We'd pass the Juneau mining ruins, Admiralty Island, Taku Inlet (see photo at the bottom), and Taku Harbor on the way before having dinner in camp. The homestead has four double occupancy 12'X11' cabins for housing (see photo below right), a lodge for eating/dining/lounging (see photo below left), two outhouses, and a trail system.

Day 2
A day in Tracy Arm. Port Snettisham is the fjord directly north of Tracy Arm Fjord; in fact, one can see into Tracy Arm over the low strip of land at the end of Gilbert Bay. We'll head out to Stephen's Passage and down the Snettisham Peninsula before turning into Tracy Arm. Except for die-hard whale enthusiasts, this will no doubt be the highlight of the trip. Tracy Arm is a singularly dramatic fjord, its narrow passage bordered by smooth, sheer cliffs that house hundreds of waterfalls. Add to that gorgeous valleys crowned with hanging glaciers, two brilliant blue tidewater glaciers, and a million ice bergs floating in bright green water inhabited by pupping harbor seals. Bears, mountain goats and Arctic terns round out the wildlife. Most people can't help but be taken by Tracy Arm.

Day 3
Back on the water, this time in search of wildlife, first in Port Snettisham and then onward. I imagine heading out into Stephen's Passage to visit the seals, eagles, and oyster catchers on the Midway Islands, then crossing to the Admiralty shore to look for brown bears, Sitka black-tailed deer, and porpoise. Then we'd head down the Glass Peninsula and into the mouth of Seymour Canal to look for whales. On the way back we could cross back over toward the mainland, stop at the sea lion haul-out on Sunshine Island, and then pass Tracy Arm on the way back home. I haven't yet scoped out this route, but I can't wait to give it a try.

Day 4
Optional activities around the homestead. Guests will be able to kayak around Snettisham (I have five sit-on-top ocean kayaks), birdwatch, go on intertidal walks, or any number of other activities. At this point, they may just enjoy a day in camp sitting on the lodge's porch watching the seals breach.